Following on from my post on replacing the cut off switch, I thought it would be a good idea to cut a failed one open to see what was inside and try to determine the mode of failure.
Here’s the switch looking fairly ordinary…
The back looks a little corroded…
The rubber boot can be pulled off to reveal a couple of rivets holding the two halves in place (note the manufacturing date of 2001).
The rivets can be easily ground off.
Finally, there is an e-clip on the rear that needs to be removed before the switch can be separated.
The switch itself is fairly simple – the two terminal posts are attached to the two metal square plates in the base. These are surrounded in a white ceramic insulator. The top half of the switch contains a bar that turns 90 degrees – in one position it contacts with the two square plates.
Note that the two metal strips on top of the white ceramic don’t appear to serve any purpose other than to provide a surface for the bar to act upon.
As can be seen from the photo, the inside of the switch is as rotten as an MP’s expenses claim. This is because the rear of the switch is exposed to the elements behind the bulkhead. The rubber boot only stops moisture from entering the front compartment – it doesn’t protect the switch in any way.
If I still owned a 360 then I would schedule replacement of this switch as part of a preventative maintenance program.
- Ferrari 360 & F430 Battery Isolator Switch
- Ferrari F430 Battery Change
- Ferrari 360 Battery Change
- Jump starting a flat battery
- Fitting a battery tender
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