Since the battery is fitted behind a piece of trim in the cabin, Ferrari helpfully fitted a battery isolator switch in the front compartment. This switch (shown in red below) sits between a wire that runs directly to the negative terminal of the battery (blue) and a wire that is attached to the chassis (green). When the switch is opened the battery is no longer connected to the chassis and the power is isolated.
I have seen quite a few switches fail this year which causes very obvious problems, including not being able to start the engine. Ferrari charge an eye-watering £170 for the 360 switch and a staggering £230 for a F430 switch. Despite the price, there’s nothing special about them and it is easy to fit an aftermarket part for less then £10. The following two photos show the type of switch that can be used:
Before attempting any work the battery must be disconnected (see this post for details on access). In order to get to the switch, the carpet trim must be removed as well as the metal cover over the brake fluid reservoir. The switch and associated cables can be disconnected and the switch removed from the car.
The aftermarket switches have a slightly different mounting so there is a slight modification needed to the bulkhead. The hole needs to be opened up as shown here (old 360 switch still in place):
The metal then needs to be trimmed out (use something like a dremel).
Two new holes need to be drilled top and bottom in order to secure the new switch.
When re-fitting the cables ensure the terminals are cleaned up as well as the mounting point to the chassis (use some emery cloth or wet & dry paper). Once the switch is connected and secured the trim can be replaced.
Finally, I’d like to thank Richard Farrey for providing the photos used in this post.
- Ferrari F430 Battery Change
- Ferrari 360 Battery Change
- Jump starting a flat battery
- Fitting a battery tender
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