Replacing the brakes can cost over £1k an axle at an offical Ferrari dealer but the actual work involved is well within the domain of a competant DIYer and the parts can be had for very reasonable cost…. if you know where to look.
The discs are manufactured for Ferrari by Brembo. The Brembo part number is 09.7267.50 (same for front and rear) – a quick search will reveal plenty of stockists.
OEM pads are also made by Brembo but for fast road and light track use I can recommend both Pagid RS4-1 (aka Blue) and EBC Yellowstuff.
Right, onto the how to….
Note: These procedures apply to all 360 & F430 cars which are not fitted with the carbon ceramic brakes.
Remove wheel – this is what you should see. This disc is within the minimum thickness but has been damaged by Cementite forming on the face caused by uneven pad material transfer onto the disc.
Remove retaining clip that holds the flexible brake hose to the rear of the hub:
Drift out the pins holding the pads in place and remove the spring clip. You should be left with this:
And these pins and clip:
Withdraw the pads from the caliper. The material on these pads has broken down caused from being operated beyond the temperature range for the pad material.
Undo the two bolts (10mm hex) holding the caliper to the hub and move the caliper out of the way – it will need supporting on something at a similar height.
Here’s why the clip was removed in the first step – to give enough leeway to move the caliper out of the way:
Remove the 13mm bolt and 12mm locating pin that holds the disc to the hub:
Remove the disc and thoroughly clean the face of the hub (degrease, wire brush and then emry cloth):
Degrease the new disc, including the rear face that meets the hub:
Fit the disc to the hub and re-fit the 13mm bolt and 12mm pin:
Refit the caliper to the hub (use thread lock on the bolts). Fit the new pads then re-fit the retaining pins and spring clip:
Finally, re-fit the clip removed at the start that holds the flexible brake hose to the rear of the hub. Then re-fit the wheel (wheel bolts torque to 98nm).
I cannot stress the importance of bedding in the new pads and discs. Please refer to the manufacturers guidelines – if none are supplied then please see this link: Stoptech.com
Related posts:
Minor Update, Feb 2013: I had to post a pair of discs the other day which mean’t I had to also weigh them. If anyone is wondering the steel discs weigh 8.5kg each.
Aldous Voice 
Is the retaining clip just supposed to slide out? Do I need to unbolt anything to remove it? It won’t budge… Thanks!
Sorted – copious amounts of PlusGas, flat screwdriver, and a hammer slowly dislodged it!
Sorry for the late reply Valerio – yes it does slide out and yes it is very tight! As you found, a hammer and a flat bladed screwdriver will drift if off.
Torque for the bolts holding the caliper to the hub is 85nm.
What are the EBC Yellowstuff P/N for the pads? Are they EBC P/N DP4140R ?
Hi Steve,
The code on my invoice is DP4114OR (it might be DP41140R – I can’t tell if it is a zero or an ‘O’)
Hope this helps,
Aldous
Ah, right. I had a typo.
By the way, with the ABS system, is there anything unique on the 360 to bleed the brakes?
If bleeding the brakes at home I leave the ignition on so the ABS module is opened and primed, however not all the fluid will be replaced in the ABS system though.
If the car is at a workshop then there is program on the SD2 machine to bleed the ABS system so I use that.
Another dumb question for you. I got the Yellowstuff pads today. No brake wear sensor of course. What becomes of the sensors? I assume you tie them aside or something. Will thar trigger a warning on the dash.
No worries – it’s a very pertinent question. The brake wear sensors work by sending a ground signal to the car. As the pad wears down the sensor touches the disc which is connected to the chassis. This sends the ground signal to the car.
The solution for using pads without a wear sensor is to simply tie the wire out of the way making sure it cannot connect to the chassis and ground itself.
Cheers,
Aldous.
Aldous,
Am about to replace my pads to PAGID RSC1 on my F430 F1 -06.
Is it as simply to just drift the pins out, or is there any locking spring or similar to remove first?
No, just drift them out taking care not to strike the caliper.
Perfect, and seems simpler than a standard car brake pad replacement.
After 3000 km with the PAGID RSC1 fitted to the car, inluding one trackday, I am very happy with the replacement! There were some squeak in the beginning, but it is all gone now. Will be interesting to examin the wear next replacement. The Brembo pads were overheated, had a few trackdays including Nordschleife.
Aldous,
What keeps the pins in place, only friction?
How do one push the pistoins back w/o braking in particular the CCM-disc (is it brittle?), are they stuck or easy moving?
Christer
There are little springs on the pins that fit into the caliper.
Just push the pistons in with your fingers.
Replaced the pads this weekend. Worked fine as you suggested. After refitting, the pins moved a bit back-and-forth, as per spring clearence i think. After fitting of the steel plates it were all solid. One out of 12 pistons were a bit hard, but some firm force made it.
The run-in of the Pagid RSC1 pads TBD in late March…
Aldous,
It looks like with the brembo rotors the hats are not protected with some sort of paint to prevent rusting. Do you recommend painting the rotor hats with some caliper paint?
Thanks,
Isi
Yes – I spray zinc primer on them
One last question for you Aldous, should we add some brake parts grease (like permatex 24125) to the back of the pads or simply only where the pads slide on the caliper?
Thanks,
Isi
You can apply grease to the back of the pads if you wish. I never have much success with grease lasting on the backs unless it’s the really thick grease that is supplied with the oem pads
Hello Aldous! You have shared a good info about front brake pad and disc change procedures. It is perfect and seems simpler than a standard car brake pad replacement. Thanks for sharing this good info.