This post should give you enough information on how to carry out an annual service on a 360.
Underbody check. With the under trays off, a thorough check should be made of all components, including the suspension joints and bushes.
Engine Oil & Filter Change. The engine has a capacity of over 10 litres but in practice I’ve only every gotten just shy of 10 litres out in one go. Ferrari specify Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 but in practice any high spec fully synthetic 5w40 will suffice. First of all you need to drain the oil out – there are two drain plugs, one on the engine sump and one in the gearbox casing. The picture below shows the locations of the two plugs, please be careful with the one on the gear box as there is also a drain plug for the transmission oil.
I like to collect all my oil into one pan in order for me to measure exactly how much comes out, that way I can have an accurate idea how much is going back in later.
Whilst the oil is draining, the oil filter can be replaced. You will need a special tool to undo the oil filter but they are available cheaply here: eBay. The oil filter is located in front of the disareator, under the red intake plenums. The good news is that it is located in an upright position so very little oil is held in the filter and thus spillages are reduced. On Spider cars, the power steering pump needs to unbolted and moved out of the way to create the necessary access (see picture below). A smear of new engine oil on the rubber of the new filter allows it to seal properly when installed. The new filter must be torqued up to 25nm.
There is a mesh filter on the side of the gearbox casing that needs to be cleaned (circled in red in the picture below). It is removed by undoing the two 10mm nuts and then carefully pulling the filter out. Clean the mesh (I use paraffin) and check the integrity of the mesh and rubber seals. Replace if there is sign of any damage.
Once all the oil has drained out, the plugs need to be refitted – don’t forget to use new copper washers. The workshop manual specifies a tightening torque of 75nm for the drain plugs but this is an error. 75nm is far too tight and risks damaging the thread of the sump/gearbox case. I nip up the drain plugs by hand and add ¼ of a turn.
Re-fill the engine with oil – the filling point is the top of the disareator and the cap has the dipstick built in (see below). If I drain 10 litres out I will put 9 back in, warm the engine up and slowly fill until the oil is in the middle of the max and min marks on the dipstick. See here for more on overfilling: Link.
Air Filters. The air filters are changed by removing the covers. Unclip the connection to the MAF and undo the four screws holding the cover in place. Once the cover has been removed the filter is easy swapped for new. The screws holding the covers in place tend to chip, stainless steel alternatives are available here: eBay.
Cabin/Pollen Filter. The cabin filter is located in the scuttle panel underneath the wipers. Remove the rubber seal to increase access. The filter will have the direction of airflow printed on the side:
Brake Fluid Change. This is a very important part of the annual servicing and something that some workshops leave out. If the fluid is not changed at least annually it can solidify in the system and cause untold braking issues. The brake fluid reservoir is located under an access panel in the scuttle, next to the cabin filter. Ferrari specify a DOT4 brake fluid.
I use a pressurised bleeding kit made by Sealey (model VS820): Link. The system fits directly onto the reservoir and is filled with fluid. The system is pressurised using the hand pump and then each bleed nipple is opened until fresh fluid comes out. If I have clear brake fluid already in the system I like to put blue coloured fluid in so that the transition is easily spotted (and vice versa).
I bleed the caliper furthest away from the reservoir first, and bleed the inboard nipple on the caliper before the outboard one. I work my way back to the caliper closest to the reservoir. If you manage to get air in the master cylinder there is a bleed nipple under the reservoir. Whilst the wheels are off, make a check of the brake discs, pads and hoses (consider upgrading to braided hoses: Link). Also check the condition of the driveshaft CV boots and suspension bushes.
F1 Fluid Level (if applicable). The F1 fluid reservoir is located at the rear of the engine bay to the right side (circled in red below). The fluid is Shell Donax TX – I have not come across any substitute. Please note that the dipstick built into the cap of the reservoir is wrong. If you fill to the dipstick then the system will be overfilled and when it’s warm fluid will leak out of the reservoir. Inside the reservoir there is a level line – the fluid should be 5mm above this line. I suck out some of the fluid until I can see the line – I then fill to the line and what I guess to be 5mm above.
Power Steering Fluid Level. On a Modena the power steering fluid reservoir is located right at the front of the engine bay (circled yellow above). On a Spider it is in the middle of the engine bay (see picture below). Ferrari specify the fluid as Shell Donax TA but in reality any Dexron III ATF/power steering fluid is compatible. The dipstick is OK to get the level correct here.
Windscreen Washer Fluid Level. Top up the washer fluid level – the top of the filling neck is located under the front hood:
Auxiliary Belt Check. The auxiliary belts should be checked for tension and damage. There are three belts, two are accessed from inside the cabin (see picture below) whilst the third is accessed from underneath the car.
Visual Check and Road Test. One of the last things to do is to visually check the operation of everything including lights, wipers, washer jets (including headlight washers when Xenon lights are fitted), dashboard warning lights & horn. Inflate the tyres to the correct pressure and check the tyres for tread depth and any damage. Torque up the wheel bolts to 98nm before and after the road test.
Please also check out my Annual Preventative Maintenance page: Link.